2005.09.05

Mt Shasta California mountain climb predawn crampon ice axe

Arthur gears up in the darkness.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb climber ice axe predawn

Dave led the upward effort with liberal axe usage.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb climber rest headlamp

We met the steepest part of the climb in the black of night.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb dawn glacier view climber Lake Helen

Dawn approaches the mountain as Arthur surmounts the glacier.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb shadow

It took us awhile to realize that the phantom peak on the horizon was the shadow of the mountain.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb Red Banks climber

Arthur crests the chute that passes through the Red Banks - the steepest part of the ascent.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb Misery Hill climber

"Misery Hill, at last."

Mt Shasta California mountain climb Misery Hill climbers portrait

Dave, Arthur, Misery Hill.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb Misery Hill climber rocks

The last leg of the journey awaits.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb summit snow climber

The terrain near the summit is dominated by wind. So are we.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb summit snow peak climber

Dave with the summit in sight.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb climber summit ascent

The summit ascent begins.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb summit ice formations

Some maginificant ice formations.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb summit log book

The summit at last. Arthur eagerly records the feat in his diary.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb summit rest

Nearing three miles high, any rest is a godsend.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb summit view climber

...

Mt Shasta California mountain climb summit log

The BBC expedition, recorded in the summit log. Arthur dedicates his climb.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb summit view

Dave savors the view from the peak.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb summit Rocky pose

Celebration.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb summit Cooks champagne

Libation.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb climber Volcom beanie

Arthur, knowing that every step we've taken we have to take again.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb view cloud

The cloud thought it could get higher than us. We threw stones.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb view climber

Return across the ice field.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb Misery Hill descent

Down Misery Hill.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb Misery Hill descent

Endless switchbacks to navigate the soft rock. Stop scrolling so fast, it took us forever.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb descent

Dave and Arthur stop for water as we approach the Red Banks.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb descent

The trail to the Notch was not fun.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb volcanic cone

So that's the vocanic part?

Mt Shasta California mountain climb descent

Approaching the Notch...

Mt Shasta California mountain climb descent ridge

... along a windswept ridge...

Mt Shasta California mountain climb descent ridge Red Banks

... where the clouds did some pretty crazy gymnastics.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb Misery Hill the Notch

Looking up the mountain from the Notch along the length of Misery Hill.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb break Maxim magazine

Dave kept reading the punchlines before Arthur finished the joke. To avoid another ice axe fight, I told him to play 'spot the rock.'

Mt Shasta California mountain climb Maxim magazine

Arthur checks to see if the Notch is in this edition of Found Porn.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb Red Banks climber

Dave avoids the copious falling rocks as Arthur descends the hardest part of the Red Banks.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb climbers Red Banks

Finally done with that section, we reflect on how glad we are that we didn't ascend that way.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb descent glissade

Glissading was most excellent. Luckily David decided to dress in warm clothes that day, opting to wear (comparatively) warm, dry jeans instead of a grass skirt.

Mt Shasta California mountain climb descent glissade

Dave: So lovely weather we're having...

Mt Shasta California mountain climb descent glissade

... Yep. Pristine...

Mt Shasta California mountain climb descent glissade


Arthur
(Axe flailing) I'm coming in hot!
Epilogue

We broke camp and made the long hike with packs back down from Lake Helen. There was some tiredness.